Shooting Corrosive Ammo

So Bob joined the ranks of Mosin Nagant collectors, go have a peek at his lovely Tula M91/30 Hex (also if there are any surplus guns you’re interested in, BUY ONE, its not like they’re making any more of them, and the price will ALWAYS go up) He mentions some apprehension of shooting corrosive ammo. My advice: DON’T! Just be mindful. Obviously if you’re the type of person who may shoot a gun and not have time to clean it afterwords, or may forget to clean it, corrosive surplus ammo isn’t for you. Other than that, take advantage of it!

I gots me a bunch of Mosins, and I love to shoot them, and when I do shoot them I shoot almost exclusively surplus corrosive ammo, its cheap and it shoots well, also the surplus market seems to be going like gangbusters, as there’s always some distributor that’s selling sealed spam cans of surplus ammo. I also recommend buying the sealed 440 round cans, as you ammo will be sealed from the ravages of time and will come out looking brand new even tho the mint date might be 50-60 years ago. Also I’ve shot Silver Bear commercial Russian ammo before and I had bad luck with it. Sticky extraction, and really goofy groups.

So needless to say I’ve shot a LOT of corrosive ammo, most of it 7.62x54R, but I’ve shot a bunch of 7.62×25, and I’ve even run a few hundred rounds of really crappy 7.62×51 ammo thought my FAL. So bolt-action, recoil action, gas-operated, I’ve shot them all, and my guns all still look great. Also I’m not very anal, here’s what I do.

Step #1. Shoot lots of cheap ammo and have lots of fun! Big important thing, how much fun are you having if its a dollar every time you pull the trigger? How much fun is it if you only bring a couple of rounds to the range and leave still hungry for more?

Blast the crap out of stuff, and get a big smile.

Step #2. Don’t panic. Corrosive ammo simply creates hygroscopic salts that are mixed in with your gunpowder residue. Its not corrosive in itself, its not acid or floor-stripper. It just will encourage water to collect in your gun over time which will promote rust. Trust me, even in the humid summers of New England your gun will NOT instantly rust. If you want to go out for some lunch after you hit the range, don’t worry about it. If you have some errands to run after you shoot, go ahead. Just don’t forget to clean your gun!

My rule of thumb is NEVER let the sun set on a gun with corrosive ammo shot through it. At the Northeast Blogger Shoots there is much corrosive ammo shot, and I often don’t get home until late at night. Those nights I make sure to clean all the guns that have shot, or may have shot corrosive ammo. So don’t disrupt your day because you used cheap ammo, but also don’t toss your gun in the safe thinking it’ll be OK whenever you feel like cleaning it.

Step #3 Remove the salts. This is the big step. The salts are water soluble, so you need to use a water-based cleaner. A lot of guys use windex, but you can even go totally ghetto and simply use soapy water….even water might work. Me personally I use M-Pro7 because its my every-day cleaner anyway and its water-based. Win-Win! Just make sure you do not think you’re cleaning the salts with an oil-based cleaner like Hoppe’s #9, or WD-40, or brake cleaner. These oil based cleaners simply won’t dissolve the salts. So make sure you use a cleaner that works, again I recommend M-Pro7 or Windex. And make sure you clean wherever the powder residue may have gone. So that means barrel, chamber, and action (inside and outside) the bolt, the raceway, the gas system, any optics on the gun, any bayonets or metal accessories, give them all a good wipe down!

Step #4 wipe your gun dry and clean as normal. If you say clean your gun with an oil-based cleaner like Brake Cleaner, or Hoppes #9, and you decided to windex your gun, simply wipe off all the Windex until the gun is dry, then do your regular cleaning and oiling. Again because I use M-Pro7 to clean my guns, when I’m done with the M-pro7 stage, I’m done cleaning, so I wipe dry and oil my guns. Easy.

I will note that M-pro7 is NOT a sponsor of Weer’d World, but I use enough of their products that I’ll take anything they want to give me! 🙂

So the take-away from this is shooting corrosive ammo is no big deal. Also this works for strange surplus ammo that often shows up at gun shops. There has been many an instance where I asked the Bubba behind the counter “Hey is this stuff corrosive?” and gotten little more than a shrug….or worse yet “Nah, I don’t think so….” yeah that’s confidence building. But don’t turn up your nose at cheap ammo! Buy the stuff and shoot it, just take the extra steps to preserve your gun for all time!

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0 Responses to Shooting Corrosive Ammo

  1. Ballistol works well to…..

    but Windex w/vinegar, Simple Green, or Murphy’s Mix is just as good, and cheaper……

    • Weerd Beard says:

      But does that stuff also clean powder fouling and lead residue as well?

      I’m sure that stuff all works like a champ to clean out the corrosive salts, but once I finish that part, I’m done.

      • Yup.

        I use Ballistol to clean my guns when I’m shooting real black, or smokeless. Cleans up everything real nice.

        • Weerd Beard says:

          I have heard good things about that stuff, but never used it.

          So is it water based?

          • deadcenter56 says:

            Ballistol is a water soluble oil made from medical grade mineral oil, alkaline salts of oleic acid, several alcohols, Benzyl Acetate and oil from vegetable seeds. I find the best mix is 6 parts water to 1 part Ballistol. The water takes care of the salts and the Ballistol takes care of the powder residue. Then dry well and swab the bore with extra-virgin olive oil……. Ballistol was used by the German Military for their Mausers starting in the early 1900s I think.

  2. Joat says:

    I’ve got a pack of Windex wipes in my range bag. I cut patches an run them through the bore until they come out clean then run a few patches soaked in CLP. I know if I don’t do it at the range it might days until I get back to it.

  3. DaddyBear says:

    I take a thermos of boiling water to the range. Before I put the 91/30 back in its case, I remove the bolt and pour about half the water down the bore. The black crud that comes out includes the salts. After that, I either run a dry bore snake or several patches down the bore and chamber to dry it. Then I can clean it as normal when I get home. This works for muzzleloaders too. The 777 substitute I use comes clean as a whistle with not much more than water.

    If you use Windex, you’ll notice your patches come out green for the first few passes. That’s the copper fouling that the ammonia is dissolving. It’s not as concentrated as dedicated copper cleaners, but it does an OK job.

    • Weerd Beard says:

      Cool! I’ve heard corrosive ammo shooters say hot water will do the trick, and certainly on paper I can see how it works, but its nice to see a field report.

      I know BP shooters have been tossing their smoke poles in the washtub for centuries.

  4. Pingback: Another Good Troll By GunGeek | Weer'd World

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