Dry Glock in the Kitchen? OLIVE Oil!
You gonna argue with Oleg Volk?
And honestly olive oil is resistant to heat, and has a similar viscosity to many off-the-shelf gun oils. Also olive oil is preservative of choice by foodies from keeping your cast iron cookware from rusting up on you.
Just make sure to put some better oil on it next time you clean it!
Video by Wizard PC
Okkaaayyyy… THAT is different! 🙂 But better that than WD-40!!!
Why, what’s wrong with WD-40?
Honestly its a little light for good lubrication, and it has a tendency to attract dirt and dust. That being said Old Painless of The Box O Truth uses WD 40 for both cleaning and lube of all his guns.
hard to argue with that, but I prefer a little heavier oil than that.
BTW for something a little different, I know a LOT of shooters that SWEAR by Mobile Synthetic #1 for their gun oil of choice.
Since I’m a black powder shooter, in addition to modern firearms, that doesn’t seem odd to me. In fact, olive oil or whale oil would have been the lubricant available before petroleum products came around. Now, it’s true that those people weren’t working with self-loading guns, but black powder can gum up a gun in just a few rounds. Following advice of some in the know, I put a Crisco covering on each ball at the front of the chamber of my cap and ball revolver and get the stuff smeared around. That keeps the fouling slick.
Having cooked with olive oil now and then, I would like to see how it stands up to repeated firing.
Yep I was shooting with Cher and Mopar and Mopar was loading up his Cap and Ball (I believe a Remington replica) and he was loading using cornmeal as filler and crisco as ball-grease. Cher was cheerfully saying “Baking Biscuits!”
Can’t blame them! Its cheap and it works the balls!
I call it fried lead balls.
If you use olive oil, don’t use extra virgin stuff. Too many organic particles in it. Use the plain (cheap) stuff.
Or Rem Oil …
Hells yeah use the cheap stuff. EVOO tastes good, don’t waste it on a tool with no taste buds!
I am too tired to get in a never-ending debate on gun oil, (or gun makers) but I can state one thing with absolute certainty:
When it comes to a cast iron skillet, a paper towel and a smattering of lard has worked since long before vegans got militant. Never, and I mean NEVER, clean cast iron cookware with steel wool or any other abrasive. It will necessitate starting the seasoning process anew. Fresh road-kill can, however, accelerate the process.
Alton Brown taught me to clean with kosher salt as an abrasive and hot water as a cleaner. I then lube it up with oil and put it away. Lard will work too!
I’ll betcha you shoot that, it smells good!
I’ve started going with cheap brake anti-sieze compound. I figure if it can keep a civic caliper lubed & moving in dust, wet, mud & heat, a M&P should be no worries.
How does that work? I wonder if that’s a smart thing to put on a gun, as brakes do still need to maintain a LOT of friction, and both brake pads and rotors/drums are considered consumable parts on a car. No idea how the stuff works, but I’d be afraid it was a compound that allowed friction but became more lubricating at high temperatures. Certainly looking at a few websites it seems to be recommended for treating threaded parts as well as simple flex joints, as well as brake pads. Meanwhile gun lubes and grease are designed to give as little friction as possible, and the common lube points like frame-to-slide don’t actually get very hot during normal shooting and will be room temperature or body temperature when you most need them.
use caution because you do NOT want your frame and slide to be wearing like a brake pad or rotor! In the gunnie world the common automotive stuff I see used in guns is degreaser and brake CLEANER for cleaning, and various bearing grease and synthetic automotive oil for lubrication/preservation.
As a former auto mechanic:
Anti-sieze doesn’t actually go on the friction surfaces of a brake or rotor, as in, oh hell, don’t put it on the place where the pad/shoe contacts the rotor/drum or your car won’t stop!!!
Anti-sieze is just a really sticky high temp grease for things like caliper pins. It is not grinding compound, so it does not actually increase friction. The fact that it does not seep out or evaporate makes it ideal for putting it on the threads of things you want to be able to take off again- spark plugs, wheel lugs (and safe if you toqure it properly)
In fact, I’m pretty sure that coppery goo that comes on Glocks from the factory is the same copper anti-sieze I can get at Napa.
Actually I use antifreeze as a cleaner and automatic transmission fluid as a lubricant on my machine guns, as do many other gunnies. That stuff’s tough and takes heat well.
Never heard about antifreeze. Have heard about the tranny oil….they don’t call it “ATF” for nothing! 😉
Antifreeze makes for a great bore cleaner.